Being more like Mexican food can save us from ignorant injustice.

The Orange County man who wrote the book on Mexican food in the United States is talking about German sauerkraut while sipping a Spanish cocktail in Miami, Fla., the unofficial capital of Latin America.

“Food has to evolve to continue to be vibrant and relevant,” says Gustavo Arellano, author of Taco USA: How Mexican Food Conquered America. “As Americans, we have more German blood in us than any other ethnicity. But German food hasn’t influenced American food that much because it hasn’t fundamentally evolved. Mexican food is always evolving.”

He also writes the Weekly column that hits inboxes every Monday, the polarizing “¡Ask a Mexican!” – where he schools often racist readers who ask him things like “Why do Mexicans wear so much clothing when they go swimming?” and “Can I demand my day laborer work better?” – so our conversation traversed more than tortillas. (Get the Q&A at www.mcweekly.com/edible; visit www.mcweekly.com/subscribe to get “¡Ask a Mexican!” emailed to you.)

The talk turned to people feeling the need to segregate “authentic,” old-school Mexican from more modern interpretations from chefs like Rick Bayless.

“Writing the book,” he says, “I found the reason Mexican food is so amazing is because of the mix of cultures.”

After writing the syndicated column for nine years, he also learned something about his own self-image.

“It’s taught me that ethnic identity is fluid,” he says. “People like to say, ‘You’re not a real Mexican; you didn’t do this or that.’ Some of the most Mexican people I know are straight-up white people, gabachos, who grew up with Mexicans, love Mexican culture and are pro-immigrant activists. Some of most racist people I know are full-blooded Mexicans.”

Given the other events of that weekend in Florida, though, it was what he said next that stuck with me: “People who think identity can fit into pretty little boxes are as deluded as Minute Men. They both are gonna be ground into obsolescence.”

From a sleek bar in the Intercontinental Miami, we sat about a football field from where we had lunch with the rest of the journalists gathered for the annual Association of Alternative Newsmedia convention a day earlier, and about a half mile from American Airlines Arena, where the Miami Heat won the NBA championship last month.

The theme of the lunch, featuring 2 Live Crew’s Luther Campbell, was free speech. The theme of the Heat tweets later that night was Trayvon Martin. A theme in each, as with my talk with Arellano, was the offensive and even obscene.

Campbell talked about braving airport arrests on tour, every jail in Florida and three trials at once because of “Oh Me So Horny” lyrics like “I play with your heart just like it’s a game/ I’ll be blowing your mind while you’re blowing my brains.”

He said his friend told him, “You’re a lawyer, just not certified,” and added “I know something about picking juries.” He also knows something about growing up with an uncle who wouldn’t let him watch cartoons: “He said, ‘If you don’t read the newspapers, they’ll put invisible chains on you.’”

In his own newspaper column in Miami New Times, the Weekly’s South Beach alt-media brethren, he wrote, “I was especially appalled when Zimmerman’s lawyer, Mark O’Mara, had the audacity to claim that had his client been a black man, the case would never have been prosecuted.”

At the Free Speech lunch – before the following day’s verdict – he honed in on the jury selection, saying it wasn’t authentic America, and therefore guaranteed the outcome.

“The short story,” he said, “Miami is a melting pot. So many different pockets of different people. It’s sad it can’t get a jury that represents that.”

I could hear him later in Arellano’s thoughts, as The Mexican spoke of racism present in the immigration debate: “There’s a fear that immigrants are never going to assimilate… But the kids always assimilate. To say that they don’t or fear that they won’t betrays a lack of faith in the melting pot that is the United States.”

When the George Zimmerman verdict emerged, a melting pot was pouring through the streets of Miami’s Wynwood art district for a monthly explosion of textiles, photography and graffiti, 10,000-plus of every shade undeterred by the warm rains that came earlier, and mounted police too, anticipating a storm of protest on the way.

It was right around then that three-time NBA champ and Heat two-guard Dwayne Wade tweeted, “Saddened as a father!!! Some1 make sense of this verdict for me right now please!!! Don’t worry I’ll wait… .” Last year, NBA league and finals MVP LeBron James led a team photo of the Heat wearing hoodies.

The good news there: Their free speech will reach an audience wildly more diverse than the Zimmerman jury.

More good news: Our identities and foods present clear lessons by creating greatness through change. Differences become strengths, not obstacles. People aren’t put in little categories. Stereotypes can be called out.

The real challenge there, even as Martin was placed in figurative and literal boxes: George Zimmerman doesn’t fit in a convenient container either. We can’t react with the venom that people aim at “¡Ask a Mexican!” and 2 Live Crew. By choosing not to react with hate, we create an opportunity to hold up the deeply disturbing so it can be looked at, and better carried along to obsolescence by its own momentum.

Like Arellano says of those who believe purity of race exists, “Those people are securing their inevitable demise.” Campbell demonstrated ably, defending Paula Deen’s right to have a show on TV. Tolerance and openness isn’t easy or automatic, but it doesn’t equal agreement either.

In the meantime, our mixing and melting with things different than us – things different than the old way – cannot stop. Or our evolution does too.

QUICKBITES

• While Beach House at Lovers Point (375-2345) is doing so well staff “can’t tell Tuesday from Saturday,” says partner Kevin Phillips – and now things are getting more interesting. Exec Chef Christopher Groves is off the job less than a month after the long-overdue, hyper-anticipated opening, and boyfriend-girlfriend duo/co-exec chefs Briana Sammut and Guillaume D’Angio have been elevated from sous chef. Talks have begun with the Coastal Commission and the city to turn the retail space downstairs into a coffee-ice cream-sandwich-kinda cafe. More on the blog, including new menus.

•Food Network seeks folks who can whip through a super market and pull together a meal quick like for a show they are tentatively calling “Grocery Games.” Email beontv@foodnetwork.com for a shot at $20K.

• Talk about a happy, happy birthday for anyone that cares about good, clean, fresh, local food. Certified California Organic Farmers celebrates 40 years with organic bites and wine tasting at Earthbound Farm Stand 5-8pm Saturday, July 20 ($35 donation to CCOF, 625-6219), with goodies from local proprietors including Alfaro Family Vineyards & Winery, Hallcrest Vineyards, Uncommon Brewers and more.

• Mini candy apples for 30 cents! Hit the blog to learn where to get as many as three.

• Pablo Mellin is American Culinary Federation Monterey Bay chapter’s Chef of the Year. The exec chef over at Roy’s (647-7500) could win for his grinning enthusiasm alone – “I love what I do,” he says. “My team, this cuisine, it’s my life” – but ACF President Tene Shake sees other elements too. “He has a real desire to make a difference in the Hispanic community. And when It gets down to the actual plate, the artistic flair and flavoring he has really defines a great chef.” Time to celebrate with some superb Lakanilau sushi ($22.50), 24-hour-miso-sake-marinated, slow-cooked butterfish ($31.95) and a Hawaiian martini ($14).

• Hugo Barragan is in as chef and Lotte Stokkebye is the new restaurant manager at Mission Ranch Restaurant (625-9040).

• Above-and-beyond-caffeine Crema Espresso & Wine Bar (375-1300) does Thursday Flight Nights with different featured local wineries all summer. Today (July 18) stars a range of bubblies. Pessagno, De Tierra and Otter Cove follow. Still lots of tasty tapa-type stuff like the avocado-and-ham ($6) and housemade flatbreads ($6) 4-9pm Thursday through Sunday too.

• Heller Estate Organic Vineyards (659-6220) hosts an afternoon of summer wines – 2011 Chenin Blanc, 2011 Chardonnay, and 2011 Merlot Rose to name a few – in the tasting room sculpture garden Sunday, July 21, 3-6pm, ($10, free for members).

•A produce mascot race runs 6pm Friday, July 19, with each parent company donating to Ag Against Hunger (755-1480). For more on the rodeo, see pg. 20.

• “Be kind,” Plato said, “for everyone you meet is fighting a hard battle.”