At precisely 5pm every Sunday, something unique and intense happens in an obscure bar down in the quiet wooded streets near Carmel Beach.
Locals materialize from the mist. Ice cubes and liquor fly. Laughs pop like fireworks. And suddenly, a spot blocks from the nearest restaurant, far from the city’s other watering holes and a long ways from any foot traffic gets busy like James Brown.
They pounce because La Playa Carmel (624-6476) at Camino Real and Eighth Street hosts the shortest and best happy hour in town: For 10 minutes a week (5-5:10pm), cocktails are 10 cents, in honor of Bud Allen, the previous owner. The semi-secret special enjoys such sacred but hushed appreciation I am already clearing out my voicemail for death threats from blue-hairs-by-the-sea.
Hidden treasure La Playa came to mind after my other obscure, lonely and big-value beach spot recently underwent a reinvention. Café Beach (899-4544) in the Best Western is the only spot on the water between Monterey and Moss Landing, and for years it discreetly did sturdy and straightforward California coast fare with modest prices and arresting views stretching across 180 degrees of ocean from downtown Monterey to Santa Cruz. And since few think Best Western = best food and drink, the best seats in the house were there for the hijacking.
This fall, they overhauled everything from the deals to the designs to the menu. The values that once made it a bargain-lover’s spot are gone, but there still are ways to stretch the budget. One way would be pre-dinner drinks downstairs at the lil’ Sandals bar, with its ample oceanview lounge seating, domestics beers and house wines for as little $3.50. That’s instead of the new, delicious but pricier designer cocktails up top, like the Walk on the Beach with Patron Silver, pomegranate puree, pomegranate liqueur, lemon juice, bitters and ginger beer ($11). Or the Black Pearl martini with Chambord, blue curacao, house piña colada mix, muddled blackberries and blueberries ($11). Fortunately, daily specials introduce things like all-night happy hour (Tuesdays) and Vine & Dine (half off select wines Thursdays) each day of the week. The most promising: unlimited Bloody Mary bar ($15 Sundays).
We took to the tapas and sides to piece together a satisfying meal for less. Chef Jose Velasquez’s Monterey beef slider ($5) soared thanks to a little pretzel bun, sugared bacon, cheddar, avocado and crispy onions. A tiny tuna taco with avocado and chili aioli ($6) enjoyed fresh and bright flavor. We ate every morsel of the horseradish “mash” potato ($5) and braised red cabbage ($5). And a cute pot of clams with zesty chorizo spiking the tomato broth ($14) worked as a mini splurge and dream dip opportunity for the accompanying bread. The eight new entrees – highlights include salmon “fra diablo” with sauteed prawns, black olives, jalapeño and angel hair pasta ($26), halibut a la plancha with bruschetta relish and saffron rice ($28) and bacon-wrapped pork tenderloin paired with braised red cabbage and a guava brandy reduction ($22) – keep with an overall upscaled update that includes Seafood Watch adherence and a sharp new setting with weathered wood, slick table details, revamped booths and a color palette that welcomes in and maximizes the seascape.
While we’re at it, another overlooked, high-value water spot is also retooling. The Bay Cafe (717-4054) is the only lakeside restaurant in the area, on El Estero’s north side opposite the ballpark, and my new sneak-attack spot for hearty breakfasts. On our visit, the pancake “rolle” ($9.99) entertained with one hybrid crêpe/pancake folded and filled with vanilla yogurt, fresh berries and homemade granola on top. An avocado-ortega chili skillet with green onions, potatoes, cheddar, Jack and two eggs over easy ($9.99) also went bye-bye quickly, despite its girth.
The decor is a little sterile and corny, but the attractive a.m. options run deep and affordable. There are eight ambitious omelets like the chorizo-avocado-onion-cheddar-jack ($9.99) and the fisherman’s with shrimp, Dungeness crab, avocado, tomatoes and Jack ($15), and a bunch of Benedicts ($9.99-$14.99), including carne asada, crab cake, veggie, turkey-avocado and crab-avocado. The eggs, country potatoes and toast plate is just $6.
A 5-9pm dinner with items like paella ($20.99) and lamb shish kebab ($15.95) is a recent addition, as is a 3-7pm daily happy hour with $4 glasses of wine and drafts like Sierra Nevada and Lagunitas IPA, plus $2.50 domestic bottles to go with free “munchies.” The best value of all from friendly and fun new owner-chef Enrique Alvarez, though, has to be the sunset specials with soup and salad included, like grilled sand dabs ($11.95), chicken fettuccine ($9.95) and maple soy skirt steak ($11.95), among others. There’s even a vast tea selection, a holdover from the days it was co-owned by a Caffe Trieste franchisee, and live music 7-9pm Saturdays. It’s getting a little crisp for the simple patio, but it’s there for nicer mornings too.
The only rooftop bar with an ocean view, meanwhile, floats above the fray just two blocks away. It’s another hidden gem, with solid values for low-key evening drinks and modest bites from the grill. I’d tell you more, but I only have so much room on my voicemail.
QUICKBITES
• James Beard nominee and former Canlis chef Jason Franey is coming to Restaurant 1833 (643-1833). More on the blog, www.mcweekly.com/edible.
• Chef Matt Glazer is leaving Big Sur Roadhouse (667-2370). More on the blog.
• The Press Club (901-3900) – Seaside’s new hub for art, WiFi, cold-pressed juices, coffee, scones by Sara LaCasse of Earthbound Farm fame and now wine and beer too – has new hours: 6am-10pm Monday through Saturday, 8am-7pm Sunday.
• The Oven (901-3998) is now open 10am-8pm in the old Red Brick Pizza in Del Rey Oaks next to Stone Creek Kitchen doing panini, salads, pizzas and crepes. More on the blog.
• First Carmel Valley Olive Growers Fest 11am-5pm Saturday, Nov. 8, at The Quail & Olive in Carmel Valley (659-4288) with seven local producers starring.
• The attrition of barbecue joints continues. First Curly’s, then Henry’s, now Central Texan.
• A new study reveals the U.S. wastes 40 percent of its food while 14 percent of our society struggles to eat. Simple ways to stop that appear on the blog.
• Last week Big Sur legend, creative force and generous spirit Barkley Henry passed peacefully at home.
• Sadly, gifted designer and local food enthusiast Erik Seniska is also gone, taken by cancer way too soon.
• Montrio Bistro (648-8880) honors veterans, active military, law enforcement, fire and EMS 15 percent off everything Tuesday, Nov. 11.
• Valley Hills Deli & BBQ (293-0608) has express breakfast specials; 1-4pm Nov. 8 it debuts a new organic smoothie bar and street taco/wrap bar.
• On Nov. 8 Johnny DeVivo of Porter’s in the Forest (625-2035) does a Farm to Dinner Table Dinner ($55, 5:30pm) with Creekside Farms; 6pm Nov. 13 is a sustainable winemakers dinner ($65).
• 5:30-10pm Nov. 7 and 14, The C Restaurant + Bar (375-4800) samples new Exec Chef Matt Bolton’s creations with a drink for $25. Live music too.
• Another inventive special menu at Schooners (372-BOAT) through Nov. 15: ricotta gnocchi, diver scallops, apple-blueberry pie and más ($48; $70 with wine).
• SPCA for Monterey County now has classes on how to take the DOG to dinner. More on the blog.
• Oscar Wilde: “Be yourself; everyone else is already taken.”