With the recent opening of Scales Seafood & Steaks on Fisherman’s Wharf, the Shake family dynasty adds one more piece to its local restaurant empire. This time brothers Sabu Jr. and Chris Shake are not messing around (as if they ever are). Scales is spacious, tastefully decorated with urban elegance, pendant lights and flowers on every table. It enjoys glimmering harbor views, a menu teeming with delectable choices and a great wine list like its two sister restaurants, Old Fisherman’s Grotto and The Fish Hopper. It even has a seafood market, cafe element and retail shop too, occupying 22,000 square feet, all told, in the former Gilbert’s.
The Grotto, opened by their father in the 1950s, is a big part of why Fisherman’s Wharf has become a thriving local institution; The Fish Hopper, opened in the 1990s, remains one of Cannery Row’s finest and most popular seafood restaurants. Scales aspires to complete the triumvirate.
There’s a lot of crossover and similarity between the three menus, the focus undoubtedly being on fresh seafood. Looking at Scales’ menu for the first time my mouth watered as I considered all the possibilities, although my wallet trembled.
We primed our palate on the grilled artichoke appetizer ($12) with lemon zest aioli and balsamic reduction drizzle. This was a freebie thanks to the voucher we got from the guy serving up samples of chowder outside, a custom all the dozen or so Wharf restaurants abide by as they compete for the hundreds of thousands who stroll the world famous tourist attraction each year. Our other appetizer choice was the firecracker prawns ($15), four crispy, deep fried beer battered prawns served with avocado mousse and papaya compote. A drizzle of sweet and spicy chili sauce decorates the plate and provides some extra zing without overpowering the taste buds. My wife and I agreed we could easily do that one again.
With so many mouthwatering entrees it was difficult to decide – grilled ahi tuna ($34), Papa Shake’s cioppino ($37), macadamia-crusted halibut (market price)? The most tempting for me was the ultimate risotto ($38) with lobster, scallops, shrimp, asparagus, lemon caper sauce, tomato basil relish with spinach risotto.
But since the word steak is in the name of the restaurant I thought steak should be one of our choices, just to check the quality. No one has to twist my arm. I went with the 10-ounce filet mignon ($41). Served medium rare as ordered, it satisfied my carnivorous cravings just fine, although it looked a little lonely on such a large plate dotted with four cherry tomato halves and a small mound of creamy spinach risotto. Some mixed veggies would have been nice. A crisscross grill pattern on the meat not only provided visual appeal but a good caramelized taste and texture that gave way easily to the pink and juicy interior. Whatever the reason for the somewhat hefty price tag ($41) – supply and demand? Prime quality beef? The cost of a great view? – it was still a little scary for my budget.
My wife loves both seafood and pasta so she was in harborside heaven with five seafood pastas on the menu. She chose the “linguini” Isabela ($26, the quotes are a tribute to the Scales spelling of linguine). Direct hit. It seems like you can’t go wrong with shrimp, chopped clams and scallops simmered with fresh tomatoes, green onions in a creamy garlic butter sauce, but it can be easy to overcook the seafood. These were ideally tender, and served on freshly made linguini, demonstrating why the dish is named after Mama Shake. Each twirl of the fork rewarded us with a savory bite of briny deliciousness.
Another tempting choice was the lobster and shrimp cannelloni ($29) with lemon poached lobster, grilled shrimp, ricotta cheese, tomatoes, fresh herbs and fresh spinach pasta in a lobster cream sauce. That’s on our agenda for a future outing.
I went back one more time just for the halibut. One sunny Thursday at lunchtime I took a place at the bar and, with little ado, ordered the Cajun crusted halibut ($25) served over beet ravioli, green onion, tomatoes, mushrooms with garlic cream sauce. The creamy sauce was similar to that of the linguini Isabela and just as savory and good. But the beet ravioli added a sweetness and texture that elevated this dish to star status.
As I waited for it I enjoyed a complimentary appetizer of deep fried calamari with two sauces: tartar and seafood cocktail sauce. Thickly battered and deep fried to a light golden brown, the texture and taste were right on the money and a reminder why Weekly readers frequently vote the Grotto best calamari in the county. (It also often wins for clam chowder.)
Sabu Shake Sr. got the ball rolling over 50 years by sourcing fresh and high quality ingredients, prepping them with love, treating customers like they were part of his family and giving back to the local community. Scales Seafood & Steak demonstrates his vision lives.
SCALES SEAFOOD & STEAKS 30 Fisherman’s Wharf #1, Monterey. 10:30-10pm daily. 375-1331. www.scalesmonterey.com