Developers and planners like to talk about “anchors” of a downtown, the community hubs that keep drawing people to a place that makes it feel, well, like a place. When Bruce Taylor, the CEO of Taylor Farms, announced he was moving his agribusiness company headquarters there in 2015, Salinas officials were salivating at the promise of an anchor: a shiny new building with retail on the first floor and offices above, and people working in those offices who would go out to lunch, do their shopping and run their errands in Oldtown.
It’s panning out, with an increasingly lively downtown and new food establishments all around. But the real clincher came with the relocation of Portobello’s to the first floor of the Taylor Building. Almost immediately upon its opening in late August, it became a place to see and be seen, the kind of neighborhood joint where you run into at least two people you know. (On my first visit, I saw Taylor himself finishing lunch at a nearby table.)
The new digs are beautifully appointed with sleek features: a concrete floor, a long shiny counter, high ceilings, a full bar, new outdoor furniture on the patio. It’s a major upgrade from the casual spot Portobello’s shared for years with Zeph’s One-Stop in a shopping center on Highway 68 and Blanco Road.
The new place is spiffier and the menu has been upgraded and expanded, but fast-casual ordering is still available: Guests order at one register then move down the counter to pay. (At lunch, the restaurant is exclusively grab-and-go.) The cashier will give you a tray with place settings, drinks and side salads – a little awkward because then you’re left with a big tray and little dish of salad while you wait for your food to arrive. The counter line moves slowly at busy times, maybe because the servers are attentive and offering up samples.
The salads play a starring role here, with colorful, fresh ingredients and a range of options ($2.50/small; $5.50/large). Ask for a taste if you’re unsure, and if you’re feeling really called to the salad selection, order the salad sampler ($10.50), which comes with three choices.
The salads I’ve tried all share a few common – and essential – themes. They’re not overdressed or soggy, and they feature bold and flavorful add-ins.
A black-eyed pea salad, with chunks of briny feta and slices of fresh basil, is a flavorful and filling option. There are a few hearty pasta salad options, including a mild pesto that was too light on garlic for my taste, and a couple of quinoa-based salads. One was made fluffier with equal parts quinoa and rice, with celery for crunch and raisins for sweetness. The broccoli salad is crisp and doesn’t drown in sauce, as broccoli salads are apt to do.
The standout from the salad bar is the kale salad, with fresh and dark green kale that tastes like it was picked hours before. The mild dressing doesn’t overpower the flavor of the kale, offering up a balance of tartness, salty and sweet.
But it’s the sandwiches that make this an indispensable addition to Oldtown. They’re not cheap ($10.50-$13.50/hot, $7.50-$8/cold) but come with a side salad, cup of the soup of the day, or chips. And they’re robust, the kind of sandwiches that will power you through an afternoon.
The trip-tip sandwich ($10.50) is piled high with tender steak, just juicy enough to drench the bread with flavor. Sauteed peppers and onions add a layer of complexity. My dining companion raved about the grilled chicken breast sandwich ($10.50), noting the moist chicken packed in flavor. On the grilled salmon sandwich ($13.50), the fish is cooked precisely, and served with a heaping pile of ultra-fresh lettuce and tomato. The Italian bread was a little too thick and bready, but it held up well and the bread itself is delicious.
The space also allows for classic sit-down service in the mornings and evenings (but not lunch), with a menu that has grown from the original PB’s. Dinner favorites include the sand dabs ($17), which came with a side of lightly seared zucchini and red peppers and a generous portion of rice. (It also comes with an option of any one of those creative salads or soup; the corn chowder benefits from a thick and silky consistency, and makes for a perfect rainy-day meal by itself.)
They’ve also added appetizers (like the expertly cooked buffalo wings, $8) and eight pizzas like the 104, with meatballs, mushrooms, roasted garlic and fresh tomato. A brand new happy hour runs 3-6pm Tuesday-Friday and includes $5 snacks, $8 pizzas, $5 drafts, and $6 mixed drinks and house wines. Live bands are becoming a regular presence on more and more Fridays too, and always appear in concert with First Friday Art Walks.
The cocktails, like the food items, delivered admirable balance: An old-fashioned was strong and not too sweet, and my dining companion said her lemon drop had a nice blend of sweet and tart.
And don’t skimp on dessert: The brownies ($2.95) are more like fudge, in the best way. They offer a good metaphor for Portobello’s itself: Something that would’ve been welcomed in any form, but delivers above and beyond.
PORTOBELLO’S • 150 Main St., Salinas • 9am-9pm Tue-Sat; 9am-3pm Mon • 753-0797, portobellossalinas.com. Mark C. Anderson contributed to this report.