An osteria is meant to be simple – wine, something to eat, a tavern essentially. As far as Italian food goes, however, simple is good.
Even if the sauces require meticulous preparation; even if the days are long; even if an unassuming blue building at the end of a pier took countless hours, infinite hands, and some sweat and tears to become the thriving new restaurant that it is: a successful osteria seems effortless. Just a few top-notch ingredients. Simple, delicious.
Maurizio Cutrignelli remains true to his Italian roots. After a solid career that began with years of training and working in Bari, Cutrignelli spent the last 15 years sharing this love of food at his other Italian restaurant – Maurizio’s – in Morgan Hill.
With Osteria Al Mare, he brings the old country to Monterey, starting with small bites such as the local classic fritto di calamari ($14), delicately fried squid sprinkled with lemon and served with sweet basil syrup and spicy tomato sauce (simple, delicious). The pepata di vongole ($12) is a basic yet lively bowl of clams in a garlicky white wine broth sheared by a bracing citrus. Sautéed tomatoes seep into the bowl, mellowing the tartness while adding dimension. Between the crispy crostini and basket of fluffy, warm bread (along with olive oil and balsamic) already on the table, it took restraint to not dip every last crumb.
But restraint is required here if you want to make it through the courses. From the long list of pasta choices, the basics came beautifully packaged: tagliolini con fungi porcini ($16) delivers a hearty portion of earthy porcini mushrooms, a staid foundation that allows skillfully al dente spaghetti to showcase delicately fruity olive oil and subtle truffle butter.
For the secondi piatti, or main course, who could deny the brasato al Barolo ($28)? It’s a beloved Italian dish in which meat is braised (brasato) in Barolo, a high-acid, high-tannin (and highly enjoyable) red wine. A serving of short ribs arrives on a thick, tender square of polenta – subtly sweet corn as a complement for the beef. Ribs and polenta, yes – but the Barolo is key, lending both comfort and complexity, soaking the melt-in-your-mouth short ribs.
Speaking of wine, Osteria Al Mare offers plenty, with a lovely mix largely showcasing Italy and Monterey County.
Things were looking good from the bar, where just outside the window waves could be seen crashing upon San Carlos Beach. In fact, every window in the whole place boasts an ocean view. As the sun set and I contemplated dessert, the sounds of Cutrignelli and his family speaking Italian filled the quieting bar area, lending authenticity.
Between the Italian and hearing that the pastries were baked fresh to order, I couldn’t resist a turnover stuffed with Nutella ($10). Rich, chocolate hazelnut goodness came warm, and then cooled alongside vanilla ice cream. While I knew in the back of my mind that a cook had been rolling the dough, flexing forearm muscles, the effortlessness sang. The small pastry brought the same response as everything else: Simple, delicious.
OSTERIA AL MARE 32 Cannery Row, Monterey •11am-2:30pm, 5-9pm Tue-Sun •920-2833, osteriaalmare.com.