Corn dogs were not the first food on a stick. After all, Homer described skewered foods – mmm, entrails – in his epic poem The Iliad. But the humble corn dog spawned an entire culinary category known for both portability and outlandish creativity: fair food.
Crowds at fairs and carnivals are likely to encounter deep-fried Coke, Gummy Bears given the same treatment, ice cream as a burger topping and more. Last year at the Salinas Valley Fair – the event that kicks off festival season in Monterey County, happening May 14-17 – one vendor offered chicken and waffles on a stick.
The treat that started it all seems rather prosaic by comparison. Although its appeal seems diminished, the corn dog does have staying power.
“I love corn dogs,” says Joleen Green, owner of Lucy’s on Lighthouse in Pacific Grove. “It’s the best food on a stick.”
Green may be biased, of course. Lucy’s features dozens of hot dog options on its menu. But she treats the corn dog with care, starting with a honeyed cornmeal batter made from scratch. The corn dog at Lucy’s fries a shade darker than most fair versions. The resulting crisp veneer gives the dog a more satisfying character – a crackle of texture that yields to a pillowy dough and plush yet timid sausage. There’s a muted sweetness, an impression of honeycomb with a faint earthy trait that complements the meat.
Corn dogs are mild in savor, but they perk up with a sauce – in this case sweet-sharp honey mustard and Lucy’s sauce, both made in house. As for the makings of the latter, Green offers a sly smile. “It’s secret,” she says.
El Estero Snack Bar in Monterey is one of the few other spots listing corn dogs on the board. While she admits it is not one of the stand’s top-selling items – El Estero is revered by many for its burgers – owner Stephanie Bruno can’t remember a day when a dog didn’t hit the fryer.
“We have people who come for corn dogs,” she adds.
Yet for the stand wedged between two recreation areas, Sollecito Ballpark and Dennis the Menace Park, it’s the younger diners who tend toward corn dogs. For parents, a contained meal on a stick means less mess. Monterey High School baseball players sometimes grab one or two before a game.
“It’s fast and easy,” Bruno points out.
So when corn dogs are available at restaurants, it is typically as part of a children’s menu – which is the case at downtown Monterey’s Sur Burger. Still, sometimes adults will ask for one, and manager Tech Chea says there is no shame.
“Maybe they have a small appetite,” he says. “We don’t mind who orders off the kids menu.”
It wasn’t always like this. Corn dogs were once the rage – so much so that several claim its invention.
Perhaps because even origin stories are bigger in Texas, the most common tale has brothers Carl and Neil Fletcher introducing their “corny dogs” at the Texas State Fair in 1942, thus establishing its fair food status.
When fair tradition took hold in the U.S. during the early 19th century, foods on display were generally a demonstration of home techniques, such as preservation through pickling. What was available to fairgoers was most often common picnic fare.
There were innovations, of course. Large expositions, such as World’s Fairs, brought Vienna sausages, chewing gum and – more famously ice cream cones and cotton candy – to the American palate. But fun foods on a stick changed the market. And in a twist, it is likely that the corn dog made its first appearance at a restaurant rather than a fairgrounds.
Those who research such important matters point to Pronto Pup, a diner in Oregon that put a namesake battered hot dog on a stick on its menu in 1941, a year before the Fletchers. Pronto Pup began franchising the mix, not only to fair vendors, but also to restaurants. By 1945, the pup was featured at a restaurant in Chicago.
Sure, there are other claimants – an Illinois drive-in, an Oklahoma diner, a patent dating back to 1929. Either way, it can be argued that the corn dog started a revolution – and that it belongs on restaurant menus as well as carnival settings.
“I think ours are better than the fair,” Green says. “It’s the perfect little package.”