The restaurant’s owner introduces himself as Nui. As for his full name, he prefers to spell it out on paper: Thapanapong Trongarchakaew.
He gives out a laugh after almost running out of space on the page. “Thai people have nicknames because,” he says, gesturing at his writing to finish the thought.
Curry Journey opened recently in what had been Bon Ton L’Roy’s Lighthouse Smokehouse for years. Those familiar with the old, dreary dining area will be surprised at the transformation. The room is bright and stylish, with seating based on a traditional khan toke but modified to suit an American setting, along the window.
“I made that with my brother,” Trongarchakaew says.
Despite its dapper appearance, the restaurant did not open with advantages. He sold his share of another establishment to get started. Trongarchakaew and his wife took on design and decor, with help from family members, some of whom reminded him that opening a place in the current market is a bit crazy.
So a lot of handiwork – and a lot of family – went into Curry Journey and its menu, which features the colorful Thai staple, with yellow curry, the tangerine hue of Panang curry and khiao wan, the green version so named for its soft sheen. But there is also the fragrant, plush and crispy noodle dish khao soi from Nui’s native north.
“I’m not good with cooking,” Trongarchakaew admits with a smile. “But lucky me, my wife is from a food market family in Thailand.” Rattanatiporn Trongarchakaew began cooking as a child, tasked with feeding the family as they tended to the market.
For Trongarchakaew, the goal is genuine flavors in a homey atmosphere. Yet there are expectations bound to a Thai place in the U.S., such as spring rolls, cashew chicken, pad see ew, drunken noodles and (especially) pad Thai.
“Are we going to open a regular Thai restaurant?” he says, recalling the central question guiding the menu. Zab Zab Thai Cuisine anchors a corner of Lighthouse, just a few blocks away. Pacific Thai is an established destination in neighboring Pacific Grove. Mai Thai and Love Thai are just a short drive up the hill. “She said, ‘Why don’t we do what we’re good at?’”
So it’s a manageable list, with a few twists. Massaman, a curry celebrated in poetry, is presented in pot pie form. And perhaps the country’s most common dish, pad Thai, is nowhere to be found.
“That hurt me a lot,” Trongarchakaew says, mimicking a wince and blow to the heart before bursting into laughter. A shared love for curry is the soul of the restaurant.
The couple and their team create a friendly, enthusiastic vibe. And a sense of accomplishment is evident.
Over the course of a March soft opening, they grappled with everything from contracting with food delivery app providers to extending family recipes for a day of restaurant guests.
“The team is all new,” Trongarchakaew explains, noting that the issues that nag most new restaurants in their first weeks left him struggling for sleep. “But we already started. We can’t stop.”
While curry is a passion, food service is somewhat foreign ground for Trongarchakaew. His introduction to the industry was through his aunt’s family, who started D’Anna Thai Kitchen in Marina before moving operations in 2015 to Ginger Thai Kitchen in Salinas.
“She called me when I was in Thailand,” he says.
Trongarchakaew spent 20 years as a mechanical engineer, working in his native country. But his stint managing Ginger Thai not only presented new challenges, it also stirred a determination to launch his own place.
“An engineer tries to understand the concept,” he points out. “In a restaurant, it’s every little detail. When I started over there, I learned a lot. I like to do new things. That’s my nature.”
The restaurant has been a bit of a journey for Trongarchakaew – from engineer to owner, from Thailand to California. He says that a few weeks after opening, more people are beginning to venture into the dining room, and that patience along the way will hopefully be rewarded.
“I already fulfilled my dream,” he adds. “This is mine.”