Wine tasting allows one to compare the workings of terroir from year to year. There is also the matter of checking the different winemaking techniques.
But what if you could mix and match? In a dream setting, a French winemaker treating grapes in a Burgundian style could be pitted against New World mannerisms with the same fruit, maybe from different vintages.
Well, there is such a place. At Atelier Domaine Messier, guests can sample the 2022 Pinot Noir Cuvée Sagittaire, prepared under the watchful eye of Burgundian winemaker tienne Grivot, then turn to the 2023 Cuvée du Nouveau Monde – same grape, same vineyard, but subject to different weather conditions and made by the star Monterey County winemaking team, Greg and Chris Vita.
The 2023 offers fresh raspberry on the nose with the promise of feathery tannins. A sip reveals bright berries with a keen acidity tempered by a sensation of mushroom on the finish. In between swirl impressions that temp between floral and spice. It’s everything nice in a bright, cheerful Pinot. Step back into 2022 and the domaines of Burgundy, however, and the aromas become deeper. Dense fruits – black cherry along with stewed raspberry, with a loamy fungal foundation and strapping tannins – fill the palate.
The wines appeal differently, but share one thing in common: Both are delicately balanced. Best of all, there are more to compare.