The rhythmic scrubbing and clanking of metal suggests that Sal Tedesco is taking a free moment to get the kitchen in order.
“There’s always something to clean,” he says.
But much of his time in the relative calm of early dinner on a Wednesday has been spent poring over restaurant minutiae with Mike Yaley, who is dressed in street clothes and listening intently, occasionally asking questions or chatting as staff members begin their shifts.
This is what transition looks like—calm and orderly, but quite detailed. On Sept. 1, Yaley takes over as owner of Paluca Trattoria and, after 32 years at the Fisherman’s Wharf destination, Tedesco retires.
“This has been my home. It’s been good to me," he says. "The time has come."
Tedesco joined the crew of what was then The Captain’s Gig in 1994 as general manager. He and his wife Ashley bought the restaurant famed for its fish and chips in the 2000s and transformed it into a popular Italian seafood spot (Tedesco was born in Sicily).
But Yaley is no stranger to the location and its long history. His wife’s family were part of the ownership for more than 20 years. And while he plans to eventually change its name to The Gig as an homage to the past, Yaley is also keen to continue Tedesco’s success.
“Seafood and pasta,” he says of The Gig’s concept. “I’m not going to fix something that’s not broken.”
Yaley has been training side-by-side with Tedesco since the beginning of July. The kitchen team is staying on, as are most of the waitstaff.
“To him it was giving back,” he says of Tedesco’s decision to sell to a family with a connection to the restaurant, opened by the legendary Monterey chef John Pisto in the early 1960s.
Tedesco says it was just time. His lease with the city was coming up for renewal. Weighing the options, selling the restaurant won out.
“I’m going to spend time with my kids, my cat,” he says, pausing before breaking into an impish grin. “Oh, my wife, too.”
He also plans to become a tourist. “People always ask me, have you been here, have you been there?” No,” he adds, pointing out that the restaurant took up most of his time. “I’m going to start visiting the Monterey Peninsula.”
Yaley plans to remain closed on his first day of ownership as employees and electronic systems shift over to the new company. But he expects to open on Sept. 2, assuming things go smoothly.
Paluca Trattoria, 6 Fisherman's Wharf, Monterey. (831) 373-5559, palucatrattoria.com.