Last Sunday, Seaside's Monterey Peninsula Buddhist Temple hosted its 68th Obon Festival, a 500-year-old Japanese Buddhist commemoration of departed family and ancestors. Some parts of it are as solemn and measured as that may sound. But most of Sunday's seven hours were devoted to very lively activities, including eating, drinking, dancing, music, arts and shopping. Hundreds showed up for the annual event.
The temple has been an unassuming presence in the residential Seaside neighborhood, at Noche Buena and Hilby, since it opened in 1965. But according to the temple's website, the building—which commands a view of the Peninsula in the back and is buffeted by a minimalistic and organically landscaped rock garden and (dry) pond in front—got attention: "The year after completion, the building was selected as one of the most esthetically pleasing church buildings in the United States by a convention of church architects meeting in San Francisco."
Most of the time the property, sitting serenely behind a high fence, is peaceful. But on Sunday it was packed with activity, including martial arts demonstrations out back of aikido, kendo and shorinji kempo; presentations in the social hall of bonsai and bando-mitsuhiro kai (Japanese classical dance); food including tempura, sushi, gyoza, flavored ice, yakisoba noodles and green tea. There were books about Japan and Buddhism, clothing and scarves, crafts and tote bags, produce, flowers and plants; bonsai trees and ikebana flower arrangements were on display throughout the day and kids games outside engaged the little ones.
The day wrapped up on a traditional note, with Rev. Jay Shinseki officiating the obon service from the ornate altar in the temple. It started with gongs of the temple bell, a dozen of them, which increasingly quieted those sitting in the pews. The smell of burning incense filled the subdued space. Rev. Shinseki spoke at the podium, good naturedly, in a short sermon, before taking a seat at the altar and leading the flock in Buddhist chants from books located in the pews—a humbling and unifying experience.
Then he encouraged all to line up to burn incense in front of the altars on their way outside to witness and participate in the bon odori dance. That dance involved dozens of volunteers, many dressed in kimonos, circulating around a stand-alone stage, doing traditional dances to Japanese pop music piping through tinny speakers (one song was by Lady Gaga). The obon, through commemorating the dead, is a celebration of life and joy. That continues on a quieter note with an obon hakamairi (prayer) taking place at Seaside Cemetery and Monterey Cemetery on July 26; contact the Monterey Peninsula Buddhist Temple for more information at 394-0119.
The New Orleans tradition of playing big, boisterous, brassy music after a funeral march comes from a blending of black American, European, African and Haitian cultural commemorations of death, the music party meant to make the gods who are receiving the deceased happy. In much the same way, the obon makes merriment.
If you missed last Sunday's iteration, another is coming (summer is the traditional month to celebrate as the spirits are thought to be closest to their living relatives) noon-8pm Sunday, July 27, this time at the Buddhist Temple of Salinas (14 California St., 424-4105). Their lineup may sound familiar: tea ceremony, martial arts demos, ikebana floral and bonsai exhibits, classical dance and karaoki, food and drink, taiko drumming, and dancing. Sounds like a party that can wake the dead.