I now understand where the old saying, “the best thing since sliced bread,” comes from.
Several weeks ago I embarked on an experiment in my kitchen to turn basic elements of flour and water into sourdough starter. Growing up within shouting distance of the paragon of sourdough – San Francisco – the thought of capturing wild yeast from the air to bake bread intrigued both the home baker and the science nerd in me. It seemed a daunting task, however, and once I began the process, I soon realized why people long ago gave over the task of producing yeast and baking bread to professionals. I imagine celebrations when people could buy it sliced and ready to use.
The first few days of growing my sourdough starter were manageable – exciting, even – when the first bubbles appeared. But on day three, I was distressed to learn that the starter, just like my dog, needed twice-daily feedings. I was back in the fold two days later after I made my first out-of-this-world golden brown biscuits and whole wheat waffles with the “discard” starter, the bit that the experts say needs to be tossed each time you do a feeding, lest it overtake your home.
The magic that is sourdough starter lies in the naturally occurring invisible yeast microbes that are always bouncing around us, looking for something to feed on. As the ancients observed, grains and water left out will ferment and begin taking on a life of their own. Scientists later determined that this process of fermentation comes from the little buggers’ feeding frenzy. (According to a 2003 Discover magazine article, each teaspoon of starter harbors some 50 million yeasts and 5 billion lactobacilli bacteria.) Sugars are converted to carbon dioxide and ethanol, producing gas bubbles and a fruity smell – my starter smelled just like a loaf of sourdough bread at times.
There are hundreds of websites out there with advice on how to grow sourdough starter. I used the King Arthur blog, “Flourish.” (Do not use the incomplete instructions on the regular King Arthur website; I learned the hard way when my first starter turned out like a big ball of dense play dough.)
My best advice is this: Get a kitchen scale to weigh out ingredients, and remember this simple formula of 4-4-4. As in 4 ounces of starter, 4 ounces of flour (I started with whole wheat flour, but also used unbleached all purpose flour), and 4 ounces of distilled water.
Another important piece of advice: pick a warm spot in your kitchen, like the top of the refrigerator or in the oven (turned off) with the light left on. The yeast like it toasty, above 70 degrees. Use a wide-mouth glass jar or upright plastic container, and cover it with plastic wrap with a rubber band around the top, or it will start to dry out.
It took me a full two weeks to reach the point of a mature starter – when it doubles in size in four to six hours. I now keep it stashed in the fridge, so I only have to feed it once a week. I’m on to part two of the experiment, baking actual sourdough bread.
My first attempt resulted in a delicious, albeit, inelegant loaf. With practice, I know I’ll one day be able to turn out decent loaves of sourdough bread – ready for slicing.