Peter B’s turned 30 this year. Cody Leano has been its brewmaster for less than one. But his two most recent releases celebrate that milestone nicely.

A peach version of the West Coast IPA Legends of Laguna, with the stonefruit lending a fresh, almost floral aroma, with notes of chaff and honey, tinged with a bitter trace. So even before you take a sip, there is an indication of intrigue to come, which is borne out from the first sip. The addition of fruit causes the ale to question its IPA identity. The style’s resinous demeanor strides forward then steps back, allowing peach blossom and tended earth to emerge. It’s as if your palate is strolling between an orchard of ripe fruit and a dense pine forest.

The untouched version of Legend of Laguna remains on the current menu, a dry-hopped IPA with a lighter impression of stonefruit from the hops and a stronger resinous finish.

Leano has also crafted a dessert sour, and once again the beer sets expectations on edge. There is a suggestion of butterscotch on the nose that quickly falls victim to the brisk, cutting blade of a sour when sampled. It charges with the intensity fans of the style appreciate. At the same time, however, you realize a soft undertone of cream and vanilla. The beer tugs at the senses – bracingly exuberant at one end, calm and comfortable at the other.

In 30 years, Peter B’s has brewed many distinct beers. In just two examples, Leano presents a full spectrum.

PETER B’s, 2 Portola Plaza, Monterey. (831) 649-2699, portolahotel.com.