A haunting dread falls over your palate from the first sip. The cocktail is like a creaky old house on the cusp of darkness. You cannot help a sense of foreboding, creeping over the palate as bitter notes echo through the woods. And you cannot wait for the next sip.
This is Cathy Ames’ Kiss, a new cocktail at Jacks Monterey inspired by the cunningly cruel antagonist in John Steinbeck’s East of Eden. Given the character, it’s a thoughtful creation – lacking in sweetness, but not in intrigue. Bulleit Rye lends a recognizable rasp, but the impulses that follow are more elusive. Under scorched wood and raw honey of the whiskey are suggestions of blackberry and dark chocolate that are vaguely plush and welcoming, like a promise. Yet there is something unsettling – a parched, herbaceous whisper that resonates, reminiscent of Ames’ sinister nature.
This last is the work of absinthe, but keep in mind that her character is capable of charm – the role of blackberry liqueur and crème de cacao in the recipe. Bartender Tuyet Vitacca could have honored others from the novel, but few are so absorbing.
Cathy Ames’ Kiss is timed for the streaming release of East of Eden on Netflix (Vitacca was inspired by the novel, not by the streaming service) on Oct. 1 and would work nicely as a precursor. In the struggle cast by Steinbeck over the wiles of free will, this cocktail is a charming evil you embrace.